Growing LEEKS

Allium porrum

Standing like soldiers, hardened to all that winter can throw, leeks are the most trouble-free of the winter veg. Selecting varieties that mature at different times means you can harvest leeks from early autumn (sown in February) right through to the following spring (sown in March/April). As leeks are biennial, they can start to become woody as they begin to bolt when the soil warms up in the spring, so ideally lift them no later than the end of March.

Grow leeks in a sunny position in fertile well-drained soil. Like all alliums, they really don’t like getting their feet wet, so avoid growing in wetter parts of the garden. My favoured method for growing great leeks is to sow three or four seeds per cell in a tray. Grow on in a greenhouse or conservatory until the seedlings are approximately the size of a pencil. When you’re ready to plant out, pop the module out and wash off all the compost, separating the seedlings. Dib holes in well prepared soil approximately 5cm wide, 15cm deep and 20cm apart, and drop each seedling into each hole without backfilling with soil. Then with a watering can, fill each hole up to the top with water, leaving to soak in. This seems like a faff to start with, but making the hole allows the seedling to swell easily and excludes the light from the bottom 15cm of the leek, giving you that lovely blanched white portion of the vegetable.

Keeping them well weeded will ensure good airflow and no competition for water and nutrients. Occasionally plants affected by allium leaf miner or leek moth can start to rot off as infection sets in. Covering plants with horticultural fleece or enviromesh can prevent infestation in affected areas. If you can resist eating the whole lot, leaving a row of leeks in to flower the following year will reward you with 3-4ft stems and beautiful, pale purple and white fireworks.